Hôtel Dieu: A Secret Parisian Garden

In the heart of Paris, a stone’s throw from one of its greatest attractions, lies a secret garden. Located on Place Jean Paul II, in the shadow of the majestic Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris, and under the watchful eyes of her gargoyles, sits Paris‘ Hôtel-Dieu – Hospital. And within its walls, the most wonderful courtyard and garden reveal themselves to you.

In the Shadow of Notre-Dame

The great thing is that, despite the square outside usually being full of tourists, the unassuming entrance of Hôtel-Dieu means that very few venture in to visit it. This leaves this fantastic building and its secret garden both a very convenient and very quiet respite from the throngs.

A Sculpted Garden

Like many Parisian buildings, Hôtel-Dieu is built around a cour interieur – inner courtyard. And stepping into it from the front foyer is breathtaking! For here a lush jardin – garden – of scrolled boxwood accented by pink geraniums and tropical standards greets you. And even more stunning are the multi-tiered, Romanesque arches of the hospital façade that frame this sculpted jardin. In these surroundings, it’s easy to imagine that you’ve just stepped into another world.

The Oldest Hospital in the World

And one can easily be forgiven for feeling so as Hôtel-Dieu is not only the oldest hospital in Paris, but the oldest one  in the world. Founded in 651AD by Saint Landry as a refuge for the poor and sick, it has transformed over the centuries. The current Roman-inspired structure was built in the late 19th-century, replacing a Gothic one that was ravished by fire in 1772. And while Hôtel-Dieu once operated well beyond capacity, today at least one floor sits empty. Wandering through its vacant halls and past its faded, stone-carved signs is truly a fascinating experience.

Spectacular Vistas

And an even more spectacular view of the cour interieure et jardin – courtyard and garden – reveals itself with a visit to one of the upper floors.From here, you gain a greater appreciation for the scale and symmetry of the beauty that surrounds you. And you can even catch a glimpse of Notre-Dame herself.

The Bandit of Hôtel-Dieu

Back on ground level, historical monuments make an appearance. At the rear of the cour interieure stands Baron Dupuytren, head surgeon for more than 20 years beginning in 1815. He is known for developing Hôtel-Dieu into one of the leading hospitals in Europe at the time. He was also called Le Brigand d’Hôtel-Dieu – The Bandit of Hôtel-Dieu – by his contemporaries for his merciless, obsessive-compulsive personality. So, over the years, it became tradition for the hospital interns to garishly decorate the statue of Baron Dupuytren at the end of term. Thankfully, today he stands restored to his original Paris-stone glory. And he is also sheltered from further mischief by a protective case. So, when you’re visiting glorious Cathédrale Notre-Dame, take some time out to explore the secrets of Hôtel-Dieu as well. It will be time well spent.

Hôtel-Dieu  1 Parvis Notre-Dame – Pl. Jean-Paul II, 75004 Paris

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