Where to Eat in Paris When Visiting Place des Vosges

To me, Place des Vosges is a hidden treasure within the heart of Paris. I must have passed it dozens of times over the years during my visits to the city, never knowing that it was hiding in plain sight, just beyond a wall. Fortunately, I had a wonderful opportunity to discover it last summer when I stayed nearby. The primary entrance is visible from Paris’ famous Rue de Rivoli, a stone’s throw from the Saint Paul Metro station in the Marais district. And the second arched gateway is directly opposite the gorgeous courtyard from it, at the end of rue de Béarn.

Fit for a Queen

That’s one of the things I love about the City of Light. Each little street and every corner seem to offer a secret treasure. And Place des Vosges, once you find it, is no different. For within the walls of this former palais royal – royal palace – lie more hidden gems. For example, a small passage just inside the rue de Béarn gate opens up to reveal the romantic Pavilon de la Reine – the Queen’s Pavilion. Once home for a short while to Anne of Austria, it is now a posh hotel. And in one corner, under the arched arcade, you’ll discover the grand, wooden doorway to Maison de Victor Hugo – the House of Victor Hugo, now a museum. At the opposite end of that wall, an inconspicuous, open doorway draws you into the gorgeous courtyard of Hôtel de Sully. Built in the 17th-century, this grand Parisian townhouse is now home to the headquarters of the Centre des Monuments Nationaux – Centre of National Monuments.

Twinned Squares

But travel inward to the courtyard of Place des Vosges and you discover wonderful jewels there as well. For, from this vantage point, you get to take in the glorious architecture of the Place. Inaugurated as ‘Place Royale’ to celebrate the engagement of Louis XIII and Anne of Austria in 1612, the site was renamed ‘Place des Vosges’ during the Revolution. The oldest planned square in Paris, it became a prototype for subsequent European royal residences. Place des Vosges has one obvious difference from its charming twin, Place Ducale in Charleville-Mézières – a garden. Created in 1680, this beautiful retreat has, at its centre, a bronze equestrian statue of Louis XIII which Cardinal Richilieu had erected. This is a true French garden with a trimmed Linden trees shading the gravel paths bordering its edge and a fountain accenting each corner of the lawn. And in the heat of a Paris summer, locals take full advantage of its beauty and breezes. Since most Parisian apartments have no air conditioning, this park becomes their backyard. And on long summer days and well into the evening, one can find a variety of gatherings and games being enjoyed by all ages. There are a number of restaurants housed under the arches of the galleries of Place des Vosges. But I’m going to take you just outside its walls of this once-royal palace to discover several wonderful spots where you can enjoy a great meal once you’ve finished your visit.

Royal Turenne

I discovered the Royal Turenne bistro during the excitement of the 2018 World Cup. I was returning from a stroll around the Hôtel de Ville – City Hall – area, where the French national football team’s semi-final game was being broadcast to the public. Royal Turenne gave me a respite from the crowds and, at the same time, a front-row seat to some of the action. For my waiter kept running to the edge of the sidewalk to peer at the TV screen on the terrace of the café across the street to see what had happened whenever the crowd watching the game there went up in a cheer. And once France won the game, every vehicle that went by, whether car, motorcycle or garbage truck, honked their horn and cheered in unbounded joy.

It was a fun way to enjoy my delicious meal of Salade de fois gras au torchon, magret fumé et gésiers confits – Duck salad with fois gras, smoked breast and gizzards. It was a perfect, cool dish to end a sweltering day with. And a duck lovers dream: smooth, rich fois gras with generous slices of smoke duck breast. Then, to top it off, candied duck gizzards. Gizzards have been a favourite of mine since I was a girl and we raised our own hens. However, they’re not something you tend to find on restaurant menus, at least not in Canada. So I was delighted to discover them here and to have the opportunity to savour them once more.

Royal Turenne  24 Rue de Turenne, 75003 Paris, France

Le Petit Marché

If you exit Place des Vosges via the rue de Béarn gateway, you’ll come across Le Petit Marché just one street over. On one visit to Paris, I was staying one block east of this charming café and restaurant so passed by it often. It’s terrace was always bustling with customers, especially in the evening – a good sign in my books! And when I sat down and reviewed the menu, I discovered that, like many Parisian bistros, it was inspired by the seasonal offerings of the market.

And so, I had the pleasure of ending another hot, Parisian day with a lovely, cool Gazpacho au concombre – Cucumber Gazpacho – a pleasant change from the typical tomato. I followed this up with a wonderful Millefeuille de thon avec purée masion – Tuna millefeuille with mashed potatoes. The tuna had a delicious oriental-flavoured dressing and the mashed potatoes were oh-so-creamy!

Le Petit Marché  9, rue de Béarn 75003 Paris, France

Les Minimes

A block over from Royal Turenne, I discovered the stylish and contemporary Les Minimes. Mirror, marble, velvet and Murano glass dress their black and white dining room, giving it a bit of a Coco Chanel feel. And the menu offers a touch of sophistication as well.

On this particular July evening, I decided to forgo my usual glass of Sancerre for a cool, refreshing Cucumber Ginger cocktail. I enjoyed this with a beautifully, creamy Petit risotto de crevettes – Shrimp risotto. I topped this off with a Salad au avocat et bacon grillé avec un œuf poached – Avocado and bacon salad with a poached egg. The creamy, richness that the poached egg offered as it flowed over the bacon and greens was just wonderful!

Les Minimes  36 Rue de Turenne 75004 Paris

For more delicious ideas on incredible places to eat in Paris, read my post Where to Eat in Paris When Visiting the Eiffel Tower.

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