Sant Pau: The Other Modernista Wonder of Barcelona

Barcelona is a city well-known for its incredible Catalan Art Nouveau architecture, locally known as Modernista. The Basílica de la Sagrada Família, Park Güell and Casa Batlló are three of the Modernista wonders that come to mind when I think of this amazing Spanish city. So I was more than pleasantly surprised to discover the Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau during my first visit there this spring. Since I was new to Barcelona, I had decided to start my trip with a ‘hop-on-hop-off’ bus tour to get the lay of the land. And it was during this enlightening ride that I happily came upon, what turned out to be, one of the jewels of my visit.Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau was, until recently, just that – a functioning hospital. It was designed by local Catalan architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner, a contemporary of Antoni Gaudí, the architect of those previously named sites. And its objective was to provide a space of comfort and healing to the invalid. After spending an afternoon in its gorgeous buildings and fragrant gardens, I am confident that it succeeded in doing so. Just strolling in and around its Administration Pavilion was enough to elevate my spirits. For this is a building covered in wonderful symbolism, both inside and out. From the mosaics lining the exterior walls, which tell the 600 year history of this hospital, to the stylized stone angels guarding its portals, this building truly is a marvel. And one that will keep your head spinning, there is so much beauty to take in. I especially loved the stone-carved flowers surrounding the columns and reflecting the healing energy of the gardens.

The most unexpected, yet gorgeous, combination of colours greeted me as I stepped inside the arched doors of Sant Pau’s Administration Pavilion. For decorating the stone-vaulted ceiling of its grand, arched foyer were tiles and mosaics in bright pink, baby blue, burgundy and white. They spelled out the start and end dates of construction as well as symbols reflecting Barcelona’s history. This included the cross of Saint George, one of the city’s patron saints, among other things. From here, a gently sloped stone stairway lead both my eyes and body upward toward the intricately carved ceiling of the upper floor which was topped with a stunning stained-glass cupola. As I continued to climb, my eyes were met with the glowing vision of the ornately tiled ceiling of a stained-glass lined hallway. Upon closer look, I discovered the cross of Saint George as well as a beautiful array of Art Nouveau flowers decorating it too. And off of this passageway was the incredible Domènech i Montaner Hall. Richly decorated from floor to ceiling in stone, brick and ceramic, it truly was a wonder to behold. From the tiny vaults covered in floral mosaics lining the ceiling to the honey-comb and mosaic-tiled walls to the incredibly adorned doorways, this room certainly paid tribute to the architect of Sant Pau. And throughout, strong features that defined the Modernista style referenced the medieval as well as the natural. As I descended the grand staircase, an impressionistic glimpse of the other hospital pavilions, framed by this fantastic window, caught my eye. But more on those in my next post!Back on ground level, I caught sight of my next destination. For, through another wonderful Sant Pau window, la Sagrada Família shone against the gorgeous Spanish sky, its towers continuing their heavenly climb. Continue this tour of Hospital Sant Pau by exploring one of its fantastic pavilions in my post Sant Pau: The Other Modernista Wonder of Barcelona – Part 2.