Christmas Eve in Paris: Sainte Chapelle

In the heart of Paris, on the tiny Île de la Cité, a stone’s throw away from Notre-Dame Cathedral, sits the stunning Sainte-Chapelle. This other ecclesiastic treasure of the City of Light is difficult to see from the street though. You see, it forms part of the Palais de Justice – Courthouse – complex. And so it is tucked in behind the walls of this prestigious institution.

A Gothic Masterpiece

However, as I walked along Boulevard du Palais one Christmas Eve, past the gorgeous clock on the wall of the Conciergerie, I caught a glimpse of it, hovering above the courthouse. I had just finished enjoying un chocolat chaud – a hot chocolate – at the classic Brasserie les Deux Palais across the street. And now I was making my way to this stunning, Gothic chapel to attend a Christmas concert of classical music. Once inside the walls of the Palais complex, we, the audience, were led behind Sainte-Chapelle to access its entrance. This afforded us the opportunity for a closer view of the exterior of the apse of this amazing 13th-century royal chapel. And, being of that era, of course it was crowned by gargoyles. There they stood, ever vigilant against evil spirits.

Royal Decor

Even though I had been inside Sainte-Chapelle once before, its incredible beauty took my breath away upon entering it again. The brightly painted pillars and royal blue ceiling encrusted with gold were dazzling in the chandelier light. Even more so were the 15 metre high stained glass windows that lined the north and south walls and the circular apse. While about a third of these were destroyed during the French Revolution, it’s incredible to think that so many of these fragile works of art have survived for more than 800 years. The floor was also highly decorated with brightly coloured tiles and, at its centre, a white Fleur de Lys – Lily – representing the French monarch.

Crowning Glories

The unheated chapel gave me the opportunity to experience a little of what attendees in medieval times might have. I must say that I was very grateful to be bundled up in my down-filled coat. And as I listened to the soothing melodies being performed by the musicians in front of the Canopy of State, I soaked in the splendour of my surroundings.

The details on the canopy itself were also fantastic. The stylized Fleurs de Lys of its supporting arches were accented with gold. Meanwhile, wonderfully coloured angels appeared to fly overhead. I was especially taken with their multi-hued wings. These were certainly a departure from the fluffy white ones that I have come to associate with these heavenly beings.

Once the enchanting concert ended, I took a few minutes to look around up close. And then, upon leaving, exited through Saint-Chapelle’s great doors. In doing so, I passed beneath her elegant rose window and these stunning murals.

But this was not to be my only church visit on this Parisian Christmas Eve. For I had also planned to celebrate Midnight Mass at Notre-Dame Cathedral. First though, since I had some time on my hands, I headed across Pont Saint-Michel for another tasty treat. And you can read all about that in my next post: Christmas Eve in Paris: Notre Dame.

Sainte-Chapelle, 8 Boulevard du Palais, 75001, Paris

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