Adventure Rowing Down the Ebro: Mequinenza

Our second day on the water of this amazing rowing tour through Spain dawned overcast and drizzly. This was quite a contrast from the heat and sun of the previous day. Despite this, we bundled up and headed out. We were determined to keep to our schedule. We were also looking forward to a visit to the sunken village of Fayón the following day. The weather continued to worsen as we traversed the Caspe-Mequinenza Reservoir. However, the sight of an abandoned monastery majestically mounted on the cliffs of the Ebro brought us a ray of sunshine that chilly morning.

Battling the Mighty Ebro

Shortly after though, our greatest challenge of the tour faced us as we battled cold, heavy rains, high winds and three to four foot waves for about two hours. I was coxing through this storm and it was all I could do to hold on to the steering ropes to keep us from running ashore. I think we were all grateful to see our take-out spot that day. We spent the night in Mequinenza where I treated myself to a tart and tasty Llimona Gelada at the end of a delicious meal at La Brasería. Thankfully, the next day dawned warm and sunny. So we prepared to head back out on the water. Since we had just passed a damn, the boats required washing again which we did at the local car wash. And as we rigged our sculls by the docks of the Capri Club, we were accompanied by a group of eager young rowers. Before long, we were back on the river, bidding farewell to the towering Castillo de Mequinenza. Next stop: Fayón!

The Sunken Village of Fayón

The biggest challenge Mother Nature threw at us on this day were some strong crosswinds. They were nothing that our skilled coxies couldn’t handle though. And before long, we approached one of the highlights of the day: the bell tower of the sunken village of Fayón. This intriguing site was created in 1969 as a result of damning the Ebro. After marvelling at it for a while, we continued on. And just as we were approaching our campsite for the next two nights, we came across another fascinating spot. A remnant of a railway bridge destroyed during the Spanish war, it looked like a road to nowhere. Explore these captivating locations further in my post The Sunken Village of Fayón and the Road to Nowhere.

And upon arriving at PortMassaluca Camping, we were greeted by more Spanish charms. From the ruffled, powder-pink roses climbing the wall of the office to the vine-covered gazebo with its view of the impressive Bugarreits mountain, it was a warm welcome indeed.

Masterful Spanish Fare

Our dinner that evening was the first of two amazing meals we would savour at Restaurante PortMassaluca. For a Warm Chèvre Salad and a hearty seafood Paella satisfied our hunger. And the tapas served the following evening was even more spectacular. I have never been a fan of calamari but the way the chef prepared it that night had me going back for seconds and thirds. This restaurant, situated in a remote campground, served some of the best food I’ve ever tasted! I fell asleep that night with a growing love for Spanish food and for those dreamy Spanish skies.

Spanish Surprises

We were greeted next morning by an unexpected guest looking for breakfast. Our plan for the day had been to do a leisurely row up one of the tributaries of the Ebro and back. Unfortunately, high winds prevented us from doing this. So we took advantage of the sunny weather and drove into the nearby village of Gandesa instead. And it was here that I caught my first sight of Spanish Art Nouveau architecture, better known as Modernista. A stroll through the streets also gave me a glimpse into what lay beneath the surface of the Ebro at the sunken village of Fayón.